Jersey fabric is ideal for creating beautiful pieces such as a sweater, a wrap dress or pants. However, the elasticity of the mesh can block some beginners at the sewing stage. The question of the jersey that rolls up on itself in the middle of the seam is often asked. So how do you prevent jersey fabric from rolling up and what are the tips for sewing this knit properly? We gives you all its advice in this article dedicated to rolling jersey.
Jersey fabric is a knit often in wool, cotton or viscose that you can sew in different ways: with a special jersey needle, a sewing machine or with an overlocker. Compared to other knits, jersey requires a little more care in order to prevent the phenomenon of rolling up. With ther experience of knitted fabric manufacturers, there are several methods to allow you to sew this fabric with confidence such as steam blocking or lining.
One of the most well-known tricks: fabric blocking
You are in the middle of a sewing workshop with your needles to make your fabrics into new clothes. If you feel like the jersey fabric is starting to roll, it's time to try the blocking method.
As soon as the edges roll up and the sides don't stay flat, wet the stockinette. For blocking, you can use a basin of cold water with neutral soap or moisten the mesh with steam. Then, dry the jersey flat by putting needles on its edges to give it the shape you want. While drying, the knit should take the right shape and all you have to do is carefully remove the needles.
However, although this technique is famous, it is not the most effective since the jersey rolls by nature. It is therefore not uncommon for the dried piece to start rolling on the sides a few minutes after removing all the needles or on one edge after going through the washing machine.
Use stockinette stitches to create couture garments
The stitches of the jersey are identical and since they all want to twist in the same direction, the fabric has no choice but to roll. After trying many different techniques (rows of twisted knit, iron blocking with damp cloth, spraying with cornstarch), we found that we couldn't go against the nature of the fabric. It rolls and it will always roll.
So one of our top sewing tips is to create jersey-friendly pieces. For example, garments can be sewn perfectly with jersey fabric. Indeed, thanks to the seams on the sides, the jersey cannot roll. If you want to sew a sweater, consider starting the piece with a strip of rib.
Double jersey
Another sewing trick to prevent the jersey from rolling up on itself is the lining. With a full-stitch knit like jersey, fleece is ideal for lining. To do this, the first step is to block the fabric with a steam iron in order to moisten the fabric very slightly and hold it with needles. Then, take a piece of fleece larger than the jersey to make a small turn. The little extra of this technique: end up sewing by hand for a more aesthetic result than with a sewing machine.
Thus, the jersey fabric is a knit that rolls by nature, but certain tricks make it possible to circumvent this problem. If the method of blocking with an iron has its limits (not very durable), that of the liner can be a good solution. If you want to sew with jersey and are looking for ideas or patterns, we invite you to consult our article dedicated to the pieces you can create from this fabric.
What fibers is jersey made of?
Jersey fabric can be made of natural fibers such as wool, cotton or synthetic fibers such as viscose and elastane.
How to sew jersey?
You can sew jersey fabrics with a sewing machine, using polyester thread or foam thread. Due to its elasticity, jersey is a delicate stitch to sew and it is for this reason that it is often recommended that beginners use the serger.
Is it okay to iron jersey?
Some jersey fabrics can be ironed, but we advise you to smooth by hand, taking care to respect the direction of the stitches.
How to maintain the jersey?
Most jersey garments can be washed in the washing machine at 30°C, 40°C and sometimes up to 60°C.
